In this article, Melanie Pitkin, Assistant Curator of Arts & Design at the Powerhouse Museum, interviews 6 student fashion designers studying in Sydney. Interviewees can answer the questions in any way they like, so long as they keep within the 6 minutes! Let’s meet them…
[1] Crystal Tsoi, Raffles College of Design and Commerce
[2] Gabriel Lee, Raffles College of Design and Commerce
[3] Anna Westcott, Sydney Institute, TAFE
[4] Elle Wesseling, Whitehouse Institute of Design
[5] Alexandra West, Whitehouse Institute of Design
[6] Ayaka Ichikawa, Raffles College of Design and Commerce
[1]
Designer’s name: Crystal Tsoi
What she’s known for’ Crystal is the first student (i.e. non-graduate) to be selected to show at Rosemount Australian Fashion Week. She is currently featured in the Student Fashion exhibition at the Powerhouse Museum and she is a finalist in the Australasian Student Design Awards for her ‘Intangible Contortion’ collection.
Q1. If there was only one material left on the planet, what would you want it to be’
Organza
Q2. What would you make from it’
Maybe a [transparent!] dress.
Q3. What was the last exhibition you visited’
This one here!
Q4. What is the most played song on your iPod’
Muse – Unintended.
Q5. Apart from your own, what do you think is the most fabulously designed dress to date and why’
Viktor and Rolf – their designs are very innovative. They studied architecture before they did fashion so I like the way they incorporate this. They share the same ideas I have.
Q6. Describe your design approach in three words
(1) Forms (2) Proportion (3) Illusion
Q7. What’s the best thing about your work’
I’ve been doing fashion for 5 years – the first 4 years was getting read for this moment. Coming to Australia has given me more confidence to be myself and therefore I’m more innovative.
Q8. What’s the worst’
My work is not mature or perfect yet – I’m still a student. I want to be creative still, but also balance my ideas with the commercial side.
Q9. What’s the next design you’re working on’
Rosemount Australian Fashion Week in May. I have been selected to show even though I haven’t graduated yet. I’ll be sticking to the theme of “Intangible Contortion” (showing in the 2011 Student Fashion exhibition at the Powerhouse Museum). There will be 6 graduates (including me as a non-graduate!) doing 10 pieces each.
Q10. Who is your design icon and why’
I don’t have a particular one. I llike the big names and I get inspiration from multiple ones. For example, McQueen, Viktor & Rolf etc.
From the top…
Interviewees are asked to select which of the following pairs of words best describes them.
Caribbean or Casablanca’ Caribbean
Eames or Aalto’ Don’t know
Cat or dog’ Dog
Red wine or white wine’ Red wine
Apartment or house’ House
Mercedes or BMW’ Mini Cooper
Picasso or Renoir’ Picasso
Myer or David Jones’ David Jones
Swim or jog’ Swim
Michael or Madonna’ Michael
Gaga or Katy’ Katy
iPhone or Blackberry’ Blackberry
Snow or surf’ Surf
Lefty or righty’ Righty
Cadbury or Nestle’ Nestle
Black or white’ White
Skinny or full cream’ Full cream
With sugar or without’ Without
Cash or card’ Cash
Half empty or half full’ Half full
Complete the sentences…
Today I’m wearing… a black dress from Hong Kong, a $2 scarf from Balmain markets, a $65 pair of knee-high boots from Dotti, a power shoulder jacket from Hong Kong and a necklace with a Buddha etched on it my Mum gave me. I was born in the Year of the Rabbit – my Mum got the necklace from a temple in Hong Kong and I will wear it for luck for the rest of this year!
The next thing I have to buy is… an industrial machine to do more design sewing.
Before this interview, I was… at home scanning my designs for Fashion Week.
After this interview, I am… going to see my machinist to finish off my dress for the Wool Awards in Surry Hills.
[2]
Designer’s name: Gabriel Lee
What he’s known for: Gabriel was featured in the 2010 Student Fashion exhibition at the Powerhouse Museum. He was recently announced as the winner of the Tessuti competition.
Q1. If there was only one material left on the planet, what would you want it to be’
Silk
Q2. What would you make from it’
A beautiful day dress for a girl that’s very commercial and you can wear anything with it.
Q3. What was the last exhibition you visited’
ABBA at the Powerhouse, and I’m about to go again!
Q4. What is the most played song on your iPod’
Sandy from the musical Grease.
Q5. Apart from your own, what do you think is the most fabulously designed dress to date and why’
Dries van Noten – he is a Belgian designer and makes beautiful short dresses for girls with amazing prints.
Q6. Describe your design approach in three words
(1) Wearable (2) Classic (3) Unique
Q7. What’s the best thing about your work’
The emotional engagement – it’s an instinctive thing for me to do.
Q8. What’s the worst’
In my mind I want to do lots of things and I have so many ideas, but there are money barriers. But, I believe I can make it. There is a future for me in fashion design.
Q9. What’s the next design you’re working on’
I’m developing my portfolio for a Masters degree. I also entered and won the Tessuti competition for a long evening dress with bolero I designed. I’m off to New York because of it!
Q10. Who is your design icon and why’
I don’t have one, I have a lot!
From the top…
Interviewees are asked to select which of the following pairs of words best describes them.
Caribbean or Casablanca’ Casablanca
Eames or Aalto’ Don’t know
Cat or dog’ Dog
Red wine or white wine’ Red wine
Apartment or house’ Apartment
Mercedes or BMW’ BMW
Picasso or Renoir’ Picasso
Myer or David Jones’ David Jones
Swim or jog’ Swim
Michael or Madonna’ Neither
Gaga or Katy’ Katy
iPhone or Blackberry’ iPhone
Snow or surf’ Snow
Lefty or righty’ Ambidextrous
Cadbury or Nestle’ Neither – I hate chocolate
Black or white’ Black
Skinny or full cream’ Skinny
With sugar or without’ Without
Cash or card’ Cash
Half empty or half full’ Half empty
Complete the sentences…
Today I’m wearing… jersey back and cotton pants from Melbourne by a young designer (I can’t remember his name), Oxford shoes from Korea sent to me from my Mum, green ankle socks from Glebe Markets, a check shirt from a vintage shop in Japan, a handmade bangle I bought in Japan from a street vendor and my parents wedding rings (which were melted down and made into one). It’s funny, I’ve lost it several times now but it keeps coming back to me!
The next thing I have to buy is… a backpack so I can put my laptop in it. I need it for New York.
Before this interview, I was… at the travel agency picking up my airline ticket.
After this interview, I am… going to meet Crystal [Tsoi]!
[3]
Designer’s name: Anna Westcott
What she’s known for’ Anna has won a number of awards including the 2008 Dylon Colour Award. As part of Rosemount Australian Fashion Week 2011 she is showcasing her collection ‘The Innovators’.
Q1. If there was only one material left on the planet, what would you want it to be’
Wool
Q2. What would you make from it’
The interiors of a house – a tree house with woven and knitted walls which I could shape and mould.
Q3. What was the last exhibition you visited’
Annie Liebovitz at the MCA.
Q4. What is the most played song on your iPod’
Jefferson Airplane – white rabbit.
Q5. Apart from your own, what do you think is the most fabulously designed dress to date and why’
Historically, Balenciaga suits when they first came into play.
Q6. Describe your design approach in three words
(1) Textural (2) Dichotomies (3) Fluid
Q7. What’s the best thing about your work’
Playing with patterns.
Q8. What’s the worst’
Stepping on pins in my bed!
Q9. What’s the next design you’re working on’
For Fashion Week I’m working with lots of weaving and fringing as part of a 30 piece range called ‘Phos’. I’m using surrealist prints that plays with scale. It’s deceiving – it looks soft but it’s also kind of sinister.
Q10. Who is your design icon and why’
Hussein Chalayan – his approach to design and working on many different levels and ideas and the way he executes it. I also like Japanese design and design principles and aesthetics.
From the top…
Interviewees are asked to select which of the following pairs of words best describes them.
Caribbean or Casablanca’ Caribbean
Eames or Aalto’ Aalto
Cat or dog’ Dog
Red wine or white wine’ Red wine
Apartment or house’ House
Mercedes or BMW’ Mercedes
Picasso or Renoir’ Renoir
Myer or David Jones’ David Jones
Swim or jog’ Swim
Michael or Madonna’ Both
Gaga or Katy’ Gaga
iPhone or Blackberry’ iPhone
Snow or surf’ Both at the same time!
Lefty or righty’ Ambidextrous
Cadbury or Nestle’ Neither – I like dark chocolate and the organic stuff
Black or white’ White
Skinny or full cream’ Skinny
With sugar or without’ Without
Cash or card’ Card
Half empty or half full’ Half full
Complete the sentences…
Today I’m wearing… stripes by Marimekko, Philippa Kay pants, Japanese bamboo frame sunglasses, a ring from Tibet and my bag is by Uza Stilo.
The next thing I have to buy is… toothpaste!
Before this interview, I was… at a boring meeting.
After this interview, I am… going to the makers and then to yoga.
[4]
Designer’s name: Elle Wesseling
What she’s known for: [In Elle's words!] “It depends what suburb I’m in. Generally, it’s my love of beer and parties!”
Q1. If there was only one material left on the planet, what would you want it to be’
A multi-coloured floral silk georgette and lots of it!
Q2. What would you make from it’
A toga inspired party gown with a matching headpiece.
Q3. What was the last exhibition you visited’
Annie Leibovitz at the MCA.
Q4. What is the most played song on your iPod’
King of Wishful Thinking by Go West.
Q5. Apart from your own, what do you think is the most fabulously designed dress/chair/building/jewellery piece to date and why’
The antique chair my Mum bought for $20 off ebay and then upholstered in a modern zebra print fabric. Legend!
Q6. Describe your design approach in three words
(1) Fabric (2) Think (3) Draw!
Q7. What’s the best thing about your work’
I can’t answer this!
Q8. What do you hate’
Rain on my shoes!
Q9. What’s the next design you’re working on’
A headpiece made from barramundi skin and a lampshade. Yum!
Q10. Who is your design icon and why’
Marchesa Luisa Casati. She walked her pet leopards on diamond studded leads along the beach at night naked under her furs! That is gold!
From the top…
Interviewees are asked to select which of the following pairs of words best describes them.
Caribbean or Casablanca’ Casablanca
Eames or Aalto’ Eames
Cat or dog’ Both
Red wine or white wine’ Red
Apartment or house’ House
Mercedes or BMW’ Neither. Love my goold old HG Kingswood (thumbs up!)
Picasso or Renoir’ Picasso
Myer or David Jones’ Grandma Takes a Trip!
Swim or jog’ Jog
Michael or Madonna’ Madge for sure!
Gaga or Katy’ Aghhh my alter egos! Gaga.
iPhone or Blackberry’ iPhone
Snow or surf’ Surf
Lefty or righty’ Righty
Cadbury or Nestle’ Cadbury
Black or white’ Black
Skinny or full cream’ Full
With sugar or without’ Without – I’m sweet enough. I can’t believe I just said that!
Cash or card’ Card
Half empty or half full’ Half full
Complete the sentences…
Today I’m wearing… A top hat, a shirt with green and red dingoes chasing an abstract red thing on it, green supatubes from Lee and red Docs!
The next thing I have to buy is… face cream.
Before this interview, I was… reading an interview between Mark Vassallo and Tina Kalivas.
After this interview, I am… dolling up to go dancing!
[5]
Designer’s name: Alexandra West
What she’s known for: Alex was the Whitehouse Institute of Design’s 2010 Student of the Year for fashion design. Her works are currently also displayed in the Powerhouse Museum’s Student Fashion display.
Q1. If there was only one material left on the planet, what would you want it to be’
Wool
Q2. What would you make from it’
Yarn, jersey, suiting, thread, georgette, felt etc. etc.! Millions of options!
Q3. What was the last exhibition you visited’
The Hymn to Beauty: The Art of Utamaro at the Art Gallery of New South Wales.
Q4. What is the most played song on your iPod’
I don’t have an iPod, but on my iPhone I like to listen to the radio.
Q5. Apart from your own, what do you think is the most fabulously designed dress to date and why’
Issey Miyake’s “seashell” coat. It’s an organic architectural shape created from knitwear manipulation, head embossing and texturing.
Q6. Describe your design approach in three words
(1) Simple complexity (2) Versatile (3) Experimental
Q7. What’s the best thing about your work’
I try to apply a holistic approach to my designs using the conflation of fabrication, silhouette and technique (fused through experimental patternmaking and drapery) to create contemporary fashion that evokes a connection between the garment and the wearer.
Q8. What’s the worst’
I can’t answer this!
Q9. What’s the next design you’re working on’
A Spring-Summer collection that I can hopefully launch at Spitalfields Markets when I move to London.
Q10. Who is your design icon and why’
I can’t answer this either!
From the top…
Interviewees are asked to select which of the following pairs of words best describes them.
Caribbean or Casablanca’ Casablanca
Eames or Aalto’ Don’t know
Cat or dog’ Dog
Red wine or white wine’ White wine
Apartment or house’ Apartment
Mercedes or BMW’ BMW
Picasso or Renoir’ Neither
Myer or David Jones’ David Jones
Swim or jog’ Jog
Michael or Madonna’ Michael
Gaga or Katy’ Gaga
iPhone or Blackberry’ iPhone
Snow or surf’ Snow
Lefty or righty’ Righty
Cadbury or Nestle’ Nestle
Black or white’ Black
Skinny or full cream’ Skinny
With sugar or without’ Without
Cash or card’ Card
Half empty or half full’ Half full
Complete the sentences…
Today I’m wearing… Bettina Liano jeans and a sloppy jumper.
The next thing I have to buy is… a rust coloured oversized silk blouse.
Before this interview, I was… trying to tidy my boyfriend’s room.
After this interview, I am… taking my puppy for a walk on the beach!
[6]
Designer’s name: Ayaka Ichikawa
What she’s known for: Unique, “weird” and hauntingly beautiful haute couture designs.
Q1. If there was only one material left on the planet, what would you want it to be’
Flowers
Q2. What would you make from it’
I’d start with underwear!
Q3. What was the last exhibition you visited’
It was a fashion exhibition for young designers in Japan.
Q4. What is the most played song on your iPod’
Te Wo Tsunagou (Hold Hands) by Ayaka.
Q5. Apart from your own, what do you think is the most fabulously designed dress to date and why’
I can’t answer this!
Q6. Describe your design approach in three words
(1) Technical (2) Construction (3) Unisex (4) Imperfect (that’s four!)
Q7. What’s the best thing about your work’
That I make haute couture garments which are also comfortable and wearable. I like to spend a lot of time pattern making.
Q8. What’s the worst’
I spend a lot of time on one garment – I wish I could be more of a clever designer with my time.
Q9. What’s the next design you’re working on’
Baby clothes. My little niece was born last year. I like to mix Japanese and European designs and I’m working on one now in the Japanese kimono style.
Q10. Who is your design icon and why’
I don’t have any one specific design icon as my style is always changing. I like unisex fashion.
From the top…
Interviewees are asked to select which of the following pairs of words best describes them.
Caribbean or Casablanca’ Casablanca
Eames or Aalto’ Don’t know
Cat or dog’ As a pet, a dog; to look at, a cat!
Red wine or white wine’ White wine
Apartment or house’ House
Mercedes or BMW’ BMW
Picasso or Renoir’ Picasso
Myer or David Jones’ Myer
Swim or jog’ Swim
Michael or Madonna’ Madonna
Gaga or Katy’ Neither
iPhone or Blackberry’ iPhone
Snow or surf’ Snow
Lefty or righty’ Righty
Cadbury or Nestle’ Nestle
Black or white’ Black
Skinny or full cream’ Full cream
With sugar or without’ With
Cash or card’ Cash
Half empty or half full’ Half full
Complete the sentences…
Today I’m wearing… a blue tie with floral pattern from a second-hand shop in Japan, a long-sleeve white shirt also from a second-hand shop in Japan, a grey vest that was my Grandad’s (I modified it with crystal buttons, stitching in pleats and making it smaller), a beige cape with tailored collar I purchased from a younger designer when I was in Thailand, cross-over leather studded suspenders, beige Jeanasis pants from Japan, laced ankle boots from Japan and a red leather satchel.
The next thing I have to buy is… winter boots.
Before this interview, I was… reading a book “Chronicle of the Pharaohs” (I came to the Powerhouse Museum 30 minutes early!)
After this interview, I am… going to have lunch with Crystal [Tsoi]!