The French designer Hubert de Givenchy was a leading force in fashion during the second half of the 1900s and is remembered for his deceptively simple day dresses, tailored suits and coats, and elegant evening wear. His rise to fame paralled that of the actress Audrey Hepburn, his muse of 40 years, whose youthful looks perfectly matched his clothes.

Hubert de Givenchy was born in France in 1927 and studied law before turning to fashion design. He worked briefly for Jacques Fath, Robert Piguet, and Lucien Lelong. He worked for Elsa Schiaparelli for four years, during which he designed clothes for her boutique, many of them separates, an American idea new to Paris in the early 1950s. Although he became known as a classicist and traditionalist, when he launched his own label in 1952 it was with a novel collection based on separates, in which even evening wear was conceptualized in a series of interchangeable pieces. He was influenced by the older and more famous designer Balenciaga who gave Givenchy access not only to his sketches, but also to his workrooms. They shared an approach to fashion design based around the process of simplifying and refining. Both designers emphasised line and cut rather than decoration. Givenchy retired after 43 years.

The coat is representative of a type of fashion that followed the popularity of the mini skirt introduced into fashion in the mid 1960s. Full length skirts and dresses became known as the 'maxi' look. Although it can be dated to about 1970 when the maxi fashion was popular, the coat's quality in fabric, cut and finish make it wearable today. As such, the coat was chosen to represent the trend for 'vintage' fashion for the Grand Marnier Powerhouse Museum's Fashion of the Year program. The Fashion of the Year program began in 1991 as a means to update the Museum's holdings of contemporary fashion. Each year the Museum invites a panel of fashion editors and curators to select garments to represent the significant trends and designers in both international and Australian fashion. 'Vintage' fashion is defined as quality clothing that was created in years past but is still stylish today. The trend for wearing vintage clothing has been popularised by celebrities and its appeal is partly the satisfaction of wearing something unique in an era of global brands.

The coat complements other evening garments in the collection by Givenchy ie 89/1478 evening dress and A7501 evening dress.

Evening coat, womens, silk velvet and gauze/ diamante clasp fastenings, designed by Hubert de Givenchy, France, 1965 - 1975

Full length black silk velvet evening coat is tapered in at waist and has a collar and long fitted sleeves. Contrasting grey silk gauze is used for collar and rectangular panel at front. The coat is fastened down centre front at neck, bust and waist with three diamante clasps. The coat is machine sewn and fully lined with black silk.

This coat was designed by Givenchy and made in Paris in the workrooms of the House of Givenchy in about 1970.

This coat was owned and worn by Sydney woman Patti Edwards who lived in Paris for many years.

The Grand Marnier/ Powerhouse Museum Fashion of the Year panel selected this coat to represent the trend for vintage fashion. The coat was part of the Patti Edwards collection being sold by Edward's niece and nephew, Margie and Andrew Isles, through The Vintage Clothing Shop in Sydney.

Gift of Margie and Andrew Isles, 2002

Black fabric label inside centre back neck 'GIVENCHY'.

2002/98/1

1965

430 mm