Slip on shoe, single, womens, 'Grape-vine', leather/suede/rubber, Tokio Kumagai, designed in Paris, made in Italy, 1987.
Single womens open waisted slip on shoe with almond toe and low stacked heel. The shoes consist of purple suede uppers, with the vamp constructed of individually cut and sewn together circles of suede in the form of a bunch of grapes which are secured to the sole by brown leather straps between the sole and insole. The vamp features a decorative brown leather 'stem' stitched to the throat. The shoes are lined in cream leather with a sueded heel grip. The insole is in purple suede and the sock in cream leather. The leather heel features a rubber top piece and the leather sole is highly polished. A hole is drilled through the forepart of the shoe sole. Spring/Summer collection 1987.

Tokio Kumagai was known for his unusual shoe making designs and his ability to successfully utilize shoes beyond their functional purpose. Combining traditional construction shapes and witty detail, his designs were very fashionable in the the 1980s.
After Tokio Kumagai (born Japan, 1948 - died France, 1987) completed his studies in Tokyo in 1970 he headed for Paris where he worked with Castlebajac and later with Cerruti in Italy. In 1981 he opened his first shoe boutique in Paris at the exclusive address of Place des Victoire. Kumagai is famous for representing in his shoe designs the work of artists such as Dali, Kandinsky and Mondrian as well as playfully mimicking subjects such as sportscars, mice or African art. It is this innovative approach to design, incorporating handpainting as well as a wide range of materials, which has ensured Kumagai's shoes as collector's items.
After Kumagai died, his Italian agent and friend, Amelio Zagato of Heresco, continued his role to produce shoes based on Kumagai's original designs from the 1980s.

The shoes were made in Italy by Heresco under the name of Tokio Kumagai

The shoe have been acquired direct from Amelio Zagato of Heresco in Milan. The shoe has not been worn but bares a small hole through sole, due to display use.

Donated by Amelio Zagato from Heresco, 1997

Trademark stitched on synthetic fabric stitched to sock, "TOKIO KUMAGAI/PARIS" perpendicular to main name "MADE IN ITALY", white paper label on sole, printed in black, "ART. 971" (971 crossed out))/ 1858 = SB/ CAMOSCIO VIOLA 1412/ CAP.MARRONE 030/ TACCO MONOBLOCCO", leather mark on waist of sole, stamped hide shape with text within, "VERO CUOIO" beneath, "MADE IN ITALY/ 36 *"

97/126/2

75 mm

80 mm