09 Sep 2010
Collection: Powerhouse Museum
97/126/4 Shoe, single, women's 'Swan', leather, Tokio Kumagai, designed in Paris, made in Italy, 1983
Description
Shoe, single, womens, 'Swan', leather, Tokio Kumagai, designed in Paris, made in Italy, 1983.Single womens sling back shoe of cemented construction with almond toe and covered stiletto heel. The shoes consist of [metallicised] red leather upper featuring a cut out and stitched vamp, shaped in the form of a swan's head, with beak in gold leather and metal stud denoting the eye. The outside quarter features stitched and cut out detailing to denote a wing. The slingback features red elastic at the back. The lining and sock is in gold coloured leather. The covered heel features a gold strip at the top above the red and features a rubber top piece. The black leather sole is polished. Autumn/Winter collection 1983.
Production notes
Tokio Kumagai was known for his unusual shoe making designs and his ability to successfully utilize shoes beyond their functional purpose. Combining traditional construction shapes and witty detail, his designs were very fashionable in the the 1980s.After Tokio Kumagai (born Japan, 1948 - died France, 1987) completed his studies in Tokyo in 1970 he headed for Paris where he worked with Castlebajac and later with Cerruti in Italy. In 1981 he opened his first shoe boutique in Paris at the exclusive address of Place des Victoire. Kumagai is famous for representing in his shoe designs the work of artists such as Dali, Kandinsky and Mondrian as well as playfully mimicking subjects such as sportscars, mice or African art. It is this innovative approach to design, incorporating handpainting as well as a wide range of materials, which has ensured Kumagai's shoes as collector's items.
After Kumagai died, his Italian agent and friend, Amelio Zagato of Heresco, continued his role to produce shoes based on Kumagai's original designs from the 1980s.
The shoes were made in Italy by Heresco under the name of Tokio Kumagai
History notes
The shoe have been acquired direct from Amelio Zagato of Heresco in Milan.Acquisition credit line
Donated by Amelio Zagato from Heresco, 1997Marks
Trademark stitched on synthetic fabric stitched to sock, "TOKIO KUMAGAI/PARIS" perpendicular to main name "MADE IN ITALY", white paper label on sole, printed in black, "ART. 724 = P2/ LAMINATED ROSSO/ RIP. =CAP.PLATINO/ TRACCO 7219/ FODERA platino", leather mark on waist of sole, stamped hide shape with text within, "VERO CUOIO" beneath, "MADE IN ITALY/ 36"Registration number
97/126/4Height
135 mmWidth
75 mm

