In this behind-the-scenes photograph of Mexican-born fashion illustrator Alfredo Bouret by Tom Kublin we see the artist at work with his model in the Parisien salon of Spanish-born fashion designer, Cristobal Balenciaga.

Bouret achieved considerable acclaim as a fashion illustrator after he arrived in Paris from Mexico in 1948 proceeding to work for many major couture houses, including Pierre Balmain and Balenciaga. He later settled in Sydney.

Bouret's fashion illustration for Balenciaga (98/61/1) with Kublin's photograph of Alfredo Bouret working in the Balenciaga studio provide rare contextual information which enhances our understanidng the process of creating fashion marketing. Simultaneously both complement the Museum's holding of dress, hats and perfume bottles by Balenciaga.

Later, Bouret was formatively involved with the revival of the 'ethnic look' in dress from the 1950s through to the 1980s. His exhibition of drawings of local styles of Mexican dress, held at 'Le Bazaar', the boutique of the great couturier Jean Desses, in 1954 was influential, inspiring a collection by Valentino (who was working for Desses at the time) based on the 'Mexican look' - a look which Bouret himself subsequently took up with his own 'Mexicana' range of 1962-1985 that he also promoted with fashion illustration. Some of these illustrations were reproduced in Queen magazine (98/61/4).

The 'Mexicana' range was successfully sold through 'Mexicana' shops in London between 1962 and 1985 and in Sydney from 1969 to 1972. These shops were an innovative extension of Bouret's personal, cultural and artistic background and experience - merging Bouret's cultural connections with Mexico (all the Mexicana dresses were made in Mexico), his skills as a fashion illustrator and his experience in the couture houses of Paris. A wide and very popular range of 'Mexican look' dresses were created and many of these dresses are still fondly remembered by the women who bought and wore them at that time, sometimes as wedding dresses.

Fashion illustrations by Alfredo Bouret have been reproduced in 'Images De Mode 1940-1960', Christian Dior Museum, Granville, France 1996; Marie-Andree Jouve, Balenciaga, Rizzoli, New York 1989; Balenciaga: Masterpieces of Fashion Design, National Gallery of Victoria 1992; and 'Alfredo Bouret' the exhibition leaflet produced for the Charles Hewitt Gallery, Woollahra in 1997.

Anne-Marie Van de Ven, Curator

Photographic print, black and white, Alfredo Bouret sketching model in Balenciaga's salon, photographed and printed by Tom Kublin/Cristobal Balenciaga [des.], Paris, France 1957

Photographic print, black and white, of the fashion illustrator Alfredo Bouret sketching in the Balenciaga salon. A model stands to the right in black, knee length strapless dress she is has a white fluffy hat on her head. The image was photographed and printed by Tom Kublin in Paris, 1957

Photograph by Tom Kublin for Balenciaga.

Tom Kublin and Irving Penn were the major photographers of Balenciaga. Kublin took not only the fashion shots but also many behind-the-scenes shots in the Balenciaga salon. Kublin also photographed the artist Marc Chagall (displayed in the photograph of Balenciaga taken by Cecil Beaton). Kublin also took photographs of Christobal Balenciaga as did Man Ray (1940) and Cartier-Bresson (Magnum 1967) - illustrated in Balenciaga, Rizzoli 1989 p72 & p80.

Printed by the photographer, Tom Kublin

1957

Given to Alfredo Bouret in 1957 by the photographer, Tom Kublin
In Alfredo Bouret's personal possession since 1957.
Lent to the National Gallery of Victoria in 1992 for display and reproduction in the exhibition and catalogue, 'Balenciaga: Masterpieces of Fashion Design'.
Only offered to the Museum after protracted negotiations with Alfredo Bouret and the Charles Hewitt Gallery, Paddington that explained the significant relationship of the photograph to the Balenciaga fashion illustration that was being acquired through the gallery at the same time.

Purchased 1998

98/61/2

253 mm