This lace hat is an excellent representative example of the nanduti lace making technique of Paraguay. The wheel-based (ruedas) design originated in Spain and Portugal in the 1700s and was introduced to the Canary Islands and South American countries by the conquistadors and missionaries.

Wheel-based laces are distinguished by their geographical location. The name ruedas (wheel) is associated with Spain, nanduti (spider's web) with Paraguay, sol (sun) with Brazil, tucuman with Argentina, and Teneriffe with the Canary Islands. The nanduti design most closely resembles the lace-making technique that originated in Spain and is distinguished by the inclusion of palm-leaf shapes along with the wheel motif. Very little good quality older pieces of nanduti are available making pieces like this hat highly collectable. This lace hat is significant for the intricacy of its design and quality of workmanship. The hat also represents a traditional Spanish lace making technique that was introduced to Paraguay and has been in use almost continuously over the last 300-400 years.

Hat, nanduti lace in the Teneriffe / sol style, probably linen, maker unknown, Ituagua, Paraguay, 1900-1950

Starched hat in nanduti lace featuring sol (sun) motifs with scalloped edge and knotted crown. Four variations of sol motifs with a total of eleven motifs form the brim. Surrounded by a scallop edge with inner edge of brim featuring a wave pattern. Crown segmented into four with tree motif in needle weaving.

This hat is an example of a wheel-based lace with the easily recognisable round motifs of ruedas (wheel) or woven patterns with rays radiating from the centre of the roundel - sol (sun). Wheel-based laces are needle-woven over an array of freely arranged threads to make a distinctive type of lace most commonly associated with South America. The wheel-based (ruedas) design originated in Spain and Portugal in the 1700s and was introduced to the Canary Islands and South American countries by the conquistadors and missionaries.

Wheel-based laces are distinguished by their geographical location. The name ruedas (wheel) is associated with Spain, nanduti (spider's web) with Paraguay, sol (sun) with Brazil, tucuman with Argentina, and Teneriffe with the Canary Islands. The nanduti design most closely resembles the lace-making technique that originated in Spain and is distinguished by the inclusion of palm-leaf shapes along with the wheel motif.

A long blunt-tipped slightly curved needle that is flattened at the tip to enable the needle to pass more easily through the web is used to make the lace.

This lace hat was made in Ituagua, an Indian village in Paraguay renowned for its nanduti lace.

This nanduti lace hat originally belonged to Margaret Holt (1932-1983) who acquired the hat when she took extended leave from her position as a lecturer in textiles at Kuring-gai College of Advanced Education to travel overseas late 1972-early 1974. The hat was made in Itaugua, an Indian village in Paraguay, famous for its nanduti lace. Margaret travelled to many countries over the years including Africa, South America, Europe, Antarctica (five times), New Zealand as well as extensive travel in Australia, studying and purchasing hand made artefacts. Margaret's passion for needlework saw her acquire an extensive collection of books, artefacts and lace making equipment from Australian sources and from her international travels. Margaret was also proficient in a number of craft genres including millinery, lace making of all kinds, crochet tatting, macramé, weaving, hand carpet knotting, tapestry, cane work, French flower making, origami, leatherwork, dyeing and embroidery of all kinds.

After Margaret's death from breast cancer in 1983, her father donated in 1986, under the Tax Incentive Arts Scheme, a number of objects to the Museum to be known as the 'Holt Collection' that included costume, textile craft teaching aids and notes, lace making equipment, materials, accessories and ephemera. This nanduti lace hat was offered to the Museum by Margaret's father some years after her death.

Gift of Mr H S Holt, 2007

2007/162/1

1900