This open robe of candy-striped French silk brocade dates from 1775 and was purchased by the Museum from Christie's of London in 1985. The vendor stated that it was worn by a Spanish ancestor in Peru in the 18th century. At this time France set the standards for dress and etiquette. French silk brocades were renowned for their exquisite beauty and design. The candy-striped brocade is trimmed with silk blonde lace and coloured 'fly' braid. The colours epitomise the feminine pastoral fantasy popular at this time.

The 'robe a la Francaise' or 'sacque' was a very important style of the eighteenth century and in the later years appeared exclusively at court. It was characterised by the long 'coat' falling freely from the shoulders at the back. The simple cut of the garment allowed the rich silk to be fully appreciated. The front bodice was fitted and attached to a stomacher, or stiffened front panel above which the bosom puffed out, enhanced with starched muslin. A matching petticoat was worn over a hoop made of cane or whalebone. For less formal wear these petticoats were made in a different coloured silk with lozenge quilting or self-coloured embroidery. The skirt was often shaped to create a large pannier effect at the sides of the garment, so wide that the wearer might have difficulty entering a room. In contrast the 'robe a l'Anglaise' was fitted to the body at the back. Accessories would include a fan, high-heeled brocade shoes and a tall, powdered wig, reaching its maximum height around this time.

This garment is a perfect example of the rich and extravagant styles that gave France its name as the leader of high fashion in the eighteenth century.

Open robe, women's, silk brocade / metal, unknown maker, [France], c. 1775

Robe of cream silk patterned with groups of candy pink stripes and brocaded floral garlands in pink/yellow/red and green and with horizontally ribbed stripes of varying width bordered by green and black stripes. The open robe has a square neck back and front with a pair of tucks running down length of open front and sack back formed by a pair of double box pleats either side of centre back. The outer most of these two pleats is narrower than the under pleat and falls in open folds to the ground to form a train. The robe is fitted across the shoulders, has fitted elbow length sleeves which are trimed with ruffles at the cuff and fall to points at the back of the elbows. The bodice of the robe is lined with cream silk and has tape ties in various places to adjust the fit. The hem is lined with a band of cream silk. The front edges, neck and cuff edges of the sleeves are trimmed with box pleated rows of cream silk bobbin lace with an overlay of polychrome "fly" braid. The robe is hand-sewn throughout with cream silk thread.

The petticoat is of the same silk and composted of six 54cm loom widths, with a shaped panel across the centre front and seven pleats at each side to accommodate pocket hoops worn underneath. The petticoat is pleated across the back with silk tape ties on either side. The waist and hem are bound with cream silk tape. The hem is lined with a band of cream silk. The petticoat is slightly trained at the back. It is hand-sewn.

The stomacher consists of a triangular panel of the same fabric. It is constructed in four segments pieced together and lined with cream silk. It is trimmed with three rows of pleated lace, backed with cream silk and overlayed with "fly" braid.

The silk is French and notes on the object file say the design/manufacture may be French.

A note on the blue file says that the vendor stated that it was worn by a Spanish ancestor in Peru in the 18th century

A note on the object file says that the vendor stated that it was worn by a Spanish ancestor in Peru in the 18th century

Purchased 1985

85/854

1480 mm

1200 mm